The outdoor kitchen, an open shed with a corrugated sheet-metal roof and rolls of bamboo fencing tacked to the front, was in the hands of a former cook from Blanca and a former cook from Cosme last year. They served things like burrata with stone fruit, grilled corn with cashew butter and sourdough pizza topped with squash blossoms.
This year, on Memorial Day weekend, the stoves were turned over to Anthony Ha, Sadie Mae Burns and Chinchakriya Un. Working under the name Ha’s Dac Biet, Mr. Ha and Ms. Burns have been operating a floating Vietnamese kitchen that started out at bars around Brooklyn and eventually took over actual restaurants, culminating this spring in a residency at Frenchette on nights it was closed. Ms. Un has a long-running pop-up of her own, Kreung, where she recaptures the flavors of the life she might have had in Cambodia if the brutality of the Khmer Rouge had not made her family refugees before she was born.
[Hours after this review published, the three chefs quit Outerspace.]
The three chefs pool their two cuisines on one menu that hangs together seamlessly and rarely hints at who’s cooking what, valuing regional similarities over national differences. An exception is the salad Dac Biet, a bowl full of crisp raw summer vegetables tossed with all the flavorings a good Vietnamese salad wants and needs: salty fish sauce, lime juice, chopped peanuts, treacherous red wheels of bird’s-eye chiles, and shallots — raw and fried. What makes each new bite different, though, is a fistful of fresh dill, mint, purple-stemmed basil and other herbs. Like all the best summer dishes, it cools as it stimulates.